Jim With more than 10. Feed the cable up through the frame and back through the firewall, making sure that you reconnect it to the guides. Basically just chuck up the body of the unit and very carefully cut the crimp ring with a very narrow cutoff tool. They are worry about their pocket, not yours. Let me emphasize that point again. Use carburetor cleaner to spray down inside the housing either end and shake several times. If we take the bike or car out of the equation, can we help him? It is possible to apply enough force to crack the plastic speedometer housing and then you will be up a creek without a paddle.
The Suzuki instrument clusters send power out to the speed sensor, this is probably that line. Re-closing means purchasing another ring or manufacturing it from stock. That felt good, I tell you--my riding season here in New Jersey has officially begun. You'll need to get a hand puller to do this to get into the unit most likely. Now it runs more or less the correct speed. I think in the right hands, a repair is always possible with instrument clusters but cost will come into play.
Tighten gently with pliers or channel locks. Connecting battery 12v to that rail would cook the zener really bad, depending how it was fused. It allows you to apply a little leverage again the rest of the speedometer housing while bending the bezel up and away. Connected at both ends by two small gears or slots , the speedometer cable rotates within the housing and tabulates the speed of the vehicle. For those of us with electronic speedo heads or digital speedometers, there may be a recalibration function buried in the software. For those less familiar with speedometers and how they work — basically there is a single cable that runs from the back of the speedometer to either the transmission or front rotor.
The buzz on a couple of Web sites may offer a partial explanation: European standards for speedometer error. When the cable breaks, it often breaks at one end or the other. Hey, if they can get it that close to the edge of the tolerance band on the high side, they ought to be able to get it pretty close--period. I guess when you take it to the dealer you're also paying for peace of mind. Sorry Jpanhalt I should have been more clear.
The problem lies in the fact that the plastic body doesn't open up to fix the speedo. I will have to admit though, that a wobbly speedo needle does occur with kinked or damaged cables, and re-lubing an existing speedo cable is not a common occurrence, but a band-aid fix. Fixing your inaccurate speedometer will also require some real-world testing to determine the percentage of error introduced by your new tires or gearing. Also, there is no need to use a silicone sealant when resealing the speedometer — the interior needs to breathe. I took my Mercedes in to have the speedometer cable replaced at the dealer.
There's another alternative: Old-fashioned, mechanically driven speedos employed a pair of gears in the speedometer cable to slew the ratio up or down using gears with different tooth counts. Position the speedometer in place and tighten the clamp. After repair close with a blunt edge while simultaneously compressing the gasket manually or by placing speedo on table glass down and holding down carefully with a couple of clamps. Soft-face hammer plastic face is handy, but a hard leather faced hammer is better at re-assembly time. Tall order for my skills but the inspiration is now there. If that's not an option, find a speedometer shop which is getting more difficult as we transition from mechanical speedos to electronic ones to remove the speedo head and have it recalibrated.
Start the engine and allow it to idle or press the accelerator pedal to bring the engine speed up a little. Use your power drill cinched down around the internal drive cable to spin the cable and see if the speedometer needle moves. Think about it, you buy a new part, get the warranty behind it a year and they do not worry about it. The word mod is used here as in modification and yet he has not asked a question in regards to modding this board. You should also create a regular maintenance schedule that includes cleaning and re-greasing the speedometer cables. Remove the ring retaining nut from the gearbox or transmission housing. There will be a grommet on the firewall through which the cable housing passes.
One has two options, speaking from my experience many years ago. And many of the other bikes I've ridden in the past have been nearly that bad, too. I am going to save a detailed discussion on the insides of the motorcycle speedometer for another post. The viscocity of cable lube is somewhere between graphite lube and lithium grease so it normally doesn't leak out or dry out. What is the best tool for this job? As the tires wear down, the more inaccurate the speedometers become. It only needs to supply current of about 20-25mA to the speed sensor.