I have had the radiator flushed and the coolant topped off but the problem persists. When I press accelerator it increases in frequency. Anyways back to your problem, Have you checked if there is a leak, and all the refrigerant might have leaked out? But it noone ever updates there threads after they figure out there problem. Tell your buddy to stop at the Volkswagen dealer and pick up relay number 384 not sure of the part number. Release should return to 12V. Hot weather seems to have triggered the complete break, so parking in the hot Texas sun tomorrow will be the true test.
I was driving down the road the other night, no rain, about 60 degrees temp outside, and between 50 and 80 mph this noise seemed constant. I only hear the noise when I'm not cruisen' with my windows down or when the stereo isn't bumping. It's also not something easily done during a pre buying inspection. Its almost like a pulsing. I removed the line and brazed the pin hole. This went on for a week and then stopped altogether.
Many mechanical parts on your Passat like the front suspension are the same or interchangeable with the parts used on the Audi A4 and Audi A6 of a similar generation. The colder it gets the harder it gets to start. The trunk latch kept trying to open and it was stuck open. Somewhere along that path youll find your problem. By replacing relays, get all the necessary signals sent to components.
I think my car is making a relay sound, but what it's for. Has a full charge but just doesn't come on. I guess my question is what fuses control it and what relay number is the fan relay Tha air conditioner works fine after the engine heats up and the fan clutch kicks in. I have no spark from coil to plugs and no fuel from pump to fuel rail. I would be concerned if the crap relay decided to melt, fry, or something similar, taking out other things around it.
The fuse in 16 is good tank level senders from what I understand so look for another access cover with a 4-wire connector under it. Fans also not coming on when car up to temperature, but gauge never went above normal. Same sound when its turned off. You should see a plastic splash shield - it covers the bottom of the engine bay. If it's a pencil iron, you should be able to buy a smaller tip for a few bucks. Anyway I already tried jumping it when the clicking came nada.
I have a check engine light on, the suspension is clanking again, and I saw an abs light for about 5 minutes one day a couple of months ago. Timing Belt Still intact and tight. What do I need to reset Is where there a fuel relay reset or a starter reset I do have a vag-com but havent hooked up post-crash yet. After that, things just start falling apart. Please see for information on the new Passat.
I almost always use Shell V Power 93 octane fuel. Somewhere along that path youll find your problem. It's under warranty so I'll be taking it in. Also, is there a guide on recharging my sig rig? The strange thing is it will work fine for about 10-20 seconds as soon as I turn my car on then something happens and it just blows a little. This tests the functionality of the clutch As I havent got the pump running by jumping the pins on the ccm I will check the vacuum pump and its wiring next will pull it away from the car to test it with direct 12v input. I found all the 134 had leaked out through a pin hole in the aluminum line that runs down the back of the engine to the rear ac unit.
I could use help with determining if the codes are related or independent from one another and where to start to fix any andor all issues. Where do i start is there a fuse for this circut Originally Posted by waltermanm checked cables tried jumping no changes So i know i have power from the battery now where do i check Is there a fuse anywhere or relay of anykind I have been reading the no cranking threads since last week and I am not quite sure what to do now. Originally had issues with the battery - batter was replaced. Not one of them was the correct one so I disconnected each relay one at a time to see if I could cut power at the wiring harnes for the fuel pump. I have to tap or hit under the glove box for it to start. When comparing the wiring diagrams between Hi All my wifes 2002 2.
You can get into that harness and look for broke, bulged or rusted wires and splice in new ones. My first thought was the battery so I replaced and now the engine would crank like crazy but not start. Im heading out to the garage. They are hydraulic filled and will leak red fluid out the bottom if they are bad. After it does start it runs rough for a few minutes then its fine. It doesn't seem to be affecting my truck, but it does have me curious. The 384 relay generates a lot of heat back there.
It is possible for a faulty relay to supply enough power to run the fuel pump while not supplying enough for a good spark. See for detailed descriptions of what pumpe duse is. Looking for electronic schematic for a 03 w8 wagon? The engine seems to bog slightly when the switch is pressed. The voltage at the pump has been checked and is good. Use flat-blade screw driver to pry off the 3 clips holding the cover on the left side at about same height as the blower vent, but on left side not front-facing. I get clinking sound from my left wheel when I steer left or right. Car was fully warmed up, so i figure voltage should be 14.